Nothing is ever acquired
As you can imagine, there are not any shortages of shirts in all price ranges: I thought that the offer of shirts in France was already well established, and I had a lot of trouble, Now how to add value and differentiate as a new brand.
In the range of 140 euros, for example, I have already been able to wear Melinda Gloss, La Comédie Humaine, Commune of Paris or Cavalier Bleu.
Same for more accessible slots with Hast and Office Artist
I had also somewhat renounced the price range of 140 euros as the premium formula of Hast and the Office Artist shirts are qualitative for less than 100 euros.
Then I discovered the brand Oxence, positioned in the niche 90-120 euros, and which has the distinction of having initially launched into the woman.
I Oxence Paris: Presentation Of The Mark And Technical Characteristics
Oxence is the favorite name of Marion, the founder of the brand: it is at the base with masculine first name but that was worn for a moment by the women.
A bit like the brand so since Marion starts from the observation that men are already spoiled in shirts: one can have a beautiful fabric, neat and sartorial finishes and a cup that put us well worth. The story is quite different in women, for whom the offer is more aesthetic and ephemeral than the classic and durable: it is completely impossible to find that quality at that price.
Marion has resumed everything that made the quality of a masculine shirt: quality fabrics of prestigious spinning, sartorial finishing and a careful patronage. (Which we will see in more detail).
The bet is in any case very interesting: women always buy at 80% (number out of the hat) in quantity of the cheap ephemera (which can be either Tati or Tara Jarmon / Claudie Pierlot / Sandro overpriced, According to the means but the ephemeral spirit is always there).
No idea on my side if the trend will reverse: if it does, Oxence will have an offer really well placed.
First the fabrics are ultra qualitative, and it is surely the most qualitative that I have seen for a long time in this price range: the mills will be familiar to you, Thomas Mason and Albini.
The big difference is that Oxence has fully taken advantage of the creativity of these mills to offer fabrics very different from the current offer.
The armor remains classic: poplin of cotton, twill and possibly oxford. On the other hand the rendering is soft, soft and smooth, even on more assertive armatures like the twill and the oxford.
Another peculiarity is that the cottons used are not always double twisted, but have the same durability thanks to a cotton and a quality weave.
The cotton Albini and Thomas Mason is named Giza 87 on the collection chosen by Oxence: the spinners talk about it in detail on this page . We especially retain its finesse, its softness and a pretty light.
For this price range, it’s pretty good.
Decalage at armhole: The offset at the armhole is found on very high-end to more than 200 euros (and at Husbands, 190 euros).
The symmetry of the seams is slightly offset to avoid creating a crossover that makes the fabric thicker and makes a small bundle under the armpit.
It allows slightly more comfort and ease in movement (but it is barely noticeable), it reduces the folds in motion. Finally, it is more practical for ironing because it is easier to put the fabric flat without the small excess thickness.
-Collar in cloth.
All the shirts that I could see in this price range have a thermally bonded interlining.As with the offset at the armhole, a cotton interlining is a detail that one finds more in the big blouses whose prices exceed the 200 euros cheerfully
Unlike heat-bonding, it will not curl on ironing, and it will allow more air to circulate.On the other hand, it is advisable to find a padding in a good cotton, which also allows the collar to keep its rigidity.
The cotton interlining is also present on the wrists.
We then arrive on more standard finishes on this range of prices (but still very commendable):
-Tightened seams: One has the traditional 7 pt/cm.
– English seams: they are much more aesthetic than the double rows of classic seam.We talk about it in the ultimate guide to the shirt, here is a small reminder:
-Troca buttons zampa di gallina: The mother-of-pearl of Troca allows luminous buttons, not too bright and precious, neither too matte and yellowish: the buttons chosen here are also 1mm wider than normal. They are sewn in Zampa di Gallina (this way of sewing a button that looks like a houndstooth).
-Last buttonhole horizontal : you start to know. For the story, it’s to avoid spoiling this buttonhole there by coming in and pulling out his shirt from the pants. It is becoming more widespread but it is always a sign of quality.
-no reinforcing swallow: an aesthetic choice on the part of Marion.
Finishes And Fabrics For Women’s Shirts
I just list so as not to repeat the same thing unnecessarily: –
buttons mounted on foot-7 pts/cm
stitches – Cotton woven cotton
Only some very sharp finishes such as cotton interlining are missing. We find the same tissues as in the man of Albini and Thomas Mason.
For women’s shirts, it is entirely made in Romania.
For men’s shirts, it is made between Italy (for complex finishes) and Romania (for overall production).
Romania remains ultra specialized in shirt and offers reliable cuts.
Finally, accessories made in London are being prepared.
You will see it on the photos worn: it is perfect. Most shirts are long enough, and once well tucked into the pants the fit is clearly blameless.
Being extremely dry (1m75, 61-62 kg), this is extremely rare.
The armhole is quite high, without being uncomfortable: a good compromise.
3 Available Styles
In addition to the quality of the shirts, it is mainly the variety of styles available that impressed me, which I have simply never seen elsewhere in the same brand.
– a cutaway collar shirt
– a French collar shirt with musketeer cuffs
– a tab collar shirt
– and soon a pin collar shirt
This is damn practical once you know your size and whether the cut you is going to alternate between basic office shirts and slightly more original designs.
[Cta id = ‘14915’]
Ii Test Of Shirts Oxence: A Beautiful Variety Of Styles
The particularity of Oxence Paris is to propose models for women with the same sartorial requirements as the masculine offer: so we also tested a woman’s shirt, hence the first mixed shooting on JamaisVulgaire. It is here Christelle who lent itself to the game (she sometimes take pictures for the site and prepares especially a series of beautiful videos on London).
1 Women’s Models
1 The Louie Shirt
It is made in a cotton twill Albini Piumino with single twisted yarns. Christelle will tell you more tomorrow about the fit and the harbor. (She chose it a bit oversize).
It is available here.
2 The Edgare Shirt
This one is made of super poplite Piumino: poplin from Albini simple twists to cotton threads Giza 87 long and ultra qualitative. Same Christelle tells you about tomorrow.
It is available here.
Here is a glimpse of the armhole on the women’s models (with a slightly oversized shirt):
2 Men’s Models
Update November 2016
The range of fabrics available has been widened, with always the same quality of finishes.
– A cotton poplin Giza 87 stripes in a business register available here at 119 euros
– A Thomas Mason zephyr jacquard (a finer and tighter cotton) that brings consistency to an outfit but remains fairly modern with the contrast between pink and light blue available here at 89 euros
– A final version Royal Oxford (surely my favorite, I love the association of business stripes and oxford) available here at 109 eur
– A light blue poplar milleraie 120/2 – 120/2 available here at 109 euros.
You will find that the brand test is quite complimentary as a whole, and I still made a big comparison with the existing offer, also relying on what is done half-way for the same Fabrics history to have additional benchmarks.
I honestly could not find better in this price range.
Since I’ve been interested in men’s fashion, I have learned to spot these newcomers who are upsetting the standards: Melinda Gloss in 2009, Hast in 2012 (for the entry level).
With Oxence, I have the same impression.
To be honest, I had basically contacted this brand because I found the male / female concept interesting, that I wanted to do a mixed shooting to change a little and that I expected good products. ( Precision in passing: the tests that I make on the site are all positive overall, it is because I consider writing and reading 2000 words on bad products (or badly priced) is a waste of time for Everybody )
Obviously, we are pushing the price/quality ratio and optimization in these last entrenchments: Oxence distributes live, with an extremely low margin for this distribution model, and with a well-made sourcing.
(Another precision: I have authorized Marion to use my photos on the files produced shirts, but that is not my mark. Some of you have asked the question).