Through this article, we will talk to you a little of Blue Rider, and a lot of their Cerracolla jacket: it is for me emblematic of a strong piece, with details that one must learn to domesticate.
Cavalier Bleu: presentation of the brand
The origins of Cavalier Bleu
It was when I was at the Exception that I discovered the brand Cavalier Bleu. At the time, she only offered women’s jackets, extremely well cut. I was immediately frustrated and only waited for one thing: that the brand is interested in the man.
A year later, I meet Samy and Damien, who offer a collection entirely devoted to men, with a wider range than the jacket: suits, shirts, pants, and accessories.
It is around the Cavalier Bleu almanac, written by the painters (and theorists of art) Vassily Kandinsky and Franz Marc, that the brand develops its collection.
Kandinsky’s philosophy is simple: an artistic inspiration must be independent and free, as guided by a rider who would seek to channel this creative madness. And it is not a fanciful and perched interpretation: Kandinsky being an artist who loves to explain simply and rationally his works.
Kandinsky, in fact
Cavalier Bleu is also a brand that has its penchant for creative madness, and it can be seen through blue satin borders, crossed patterns, or buttons in satin finish canon. Details that have never been seen on formal clothing such as jackets or shirts.
It is precisely the state of mind of Samy that guarantees this quality: the latter has always wanted to go beyond the ephemeral and superficial beauty to interest rather in beautiful and durable objects, which can accompany it for a long time and Convey a message of substance.
Update 29/02/2016: since some collections, a good part of the clothes no longer seems to be produced in France.
This ambition is found first through jackets entirely made in France, and especially in Paris (other products such as shirts are produced in other countries).
As you know, production in France is expensive. It was only after a rigorous selection that Cavalier Bleu retained two Parisian workshops, which already provide prestigious French brands.
Also, without the expertise that goes with the Made in France has no interest: both workshops then were able to stay family, and their employees have between 30 and 40 years of experience.
Their collection is therefore composed of permanent products and very few resulted, with special care on the materials: the case of the white shirt you can be heard, and also the Ceracolla jacket.
The jacket Cavalier Bleu Ceracolla (460 €)
At first sight, it was for me a simple jacket, with a yoke in leather to the shoulders. It’s actually going a little further than that …
The shoulder yoke
It is made from a very soft Italian lamb leather with a particularly smooth texture.
If it is so pleasing to the eyes, it is that brown and blue are simply complementary. There is a very simple site to check whether two colors may well be assembled or not, this is colordb.
You will probably need to consult it often at first, then it will just become natural.
You will also have noticed that this color is lighter than the blue of the jacket: it is a big advantage because it attracts the eye towards your shoulders and it highlights them. The darker blue is indeed a contrario , slim your silhouette.
This combination of colors is ideal to give a slight V-effect to your torso, with a slimmer waist and shoulders that will look wider.
I also ticked a bit on the material, which I found at first a little smooth, even bland. I then realized that it was perfectly normal, and that there was in fact a logic of contrast of matter with the wool of the jacket of which one will speak immediately.
Wool Vitale Barberis Canonico
To be frank, it is a matter with which I was not at all familiar before seeing it on this jacket, and on other models of qualitative brands like Ami.
I was very pleasantly surprised: it is really the ideal material for a summer jacket that breathes well: Vitale Barberis Canonico wool is of superior quality, with a fineness of thread that is not found everywhere else .
On the other hand, the weaving is really original, and can almost remind a fine mesh. Result: it allows the air to pass perfectly, and hardly feels.
Finally, you can see on these photos details, the rendering is original in terms of colors: the blue is very nuanced and goes from an electric tone to a night blue tone, subtly.
The collar of the jacket
The cuffs have an original design, developed by Cavalier Bleu. The rendering is close to leather, but it is actually vinyl, so a synthetic material.
This may seem surprising, and I see from here shields, but the choice is in fact perfectly justified in the present case …
Samy and Damien first mentioned the color: the motif, which they designed themselves uses very rich tones of turquoise blue and navy blue, which had to be transcribed to perfection.
Only concern: printing on leather gives a rather bland result, where the colors lose much of their brilliance. It is precisely the vinyl that is the best compromise for an impression that remains a minimum faithful to the original colors. Here is a small picture for you to judge for yourself.
Another problem is that the cuffs are permanently bent. It is not a treatment that a natural material can endure for a long time. One would have quickly had a rough folds of wear with leather, which would have ended up cracking. Again, vinyl seemed obviously a more suitable material.
Blue Cavalier blazer finishes
This is not the first time that you are told about it: the interlining is the way to assemble the layers of a jacket between the lining and the outer layer. It allows a better hold and makes your silhouette easier to wear.
In addition to this, the interlining is much longer than the heat sealing, which will lose its shape as the ports and the washes (the lining and the outer layer are directly glued together by an industrial process).
Only concern: it remains a layer of more and in summer, when it exceeds 25-30 degrees, it will necessarily be warmer. A complete interlining would have been too much in terms of comfort.
This is why the jacket is semi-doubled and therefore semi-covered. The rest of the jacket has no lining, and lets air pass.
It is for me an ideal compromise between a jacket that remains a minimal structured and well cut, but which at the same time reaches to be light and breathable.
A real buttonhole on the wrists is one of the easiest signs to spot on a quality jacket. Cavalier Bleu has made one of its trademarks by inserting its cross motif, which remains discreet.
The brand also has the sense of detail: the two lateral buttonholes are white, and the middle one is turquoise blue, to better echo the pattern.
Other remarkable finishes
The front buttonholes have a white border that echoes the mother-of-pearl buttons: this is an interesting detail, and suggests that a blue night seam would indeed have been too bland. It is especially noticeable when we wear the jacket open.
The interior pockets are double-welt (= the two horizontal loops you see) with a buttoned flap (the triangle). This is the most advanced type of finishing.
Finally, the other signature of Cavalier Bleu, presents almost on all his clothes: the edging satiné à la poche.
Wear a summer jacket with a marked design
The last part of this test is obviously the style advice. Unfortunately, you could only shoot one of the three possible outfits.
The wise outfit, which highlights the jacket
A raw jeans Etudes Locomotion a little washed out and a white shirt Blue rider make it easy to wear the jacket, being certain not to make any flaw of taste.
The orange stitching of the jeans is discreetly echoed at the yoke, while at the bottom the contrast is wiser: the beige that is found on the belt and the derby Florian Denicourt is a little duller.
In short, you see, the jacket Ceracolla may be a strong piece, it sticks perfectly with a simple outfit. The only constraint was to respect the famous contrast skin / hair , and stay in similar shades between the top and bottom in order to stay in a perspective of verticality and not shrink silhouette.
Insert other details for a stronger and homogeneous outfit
You have seen it: the jacket is a strong piece with its contrast of colors, but also with its original material.
We can no longer insert other strong pieces that would play on these same domains. Path: the grounds.
Another difficulty: it is not logical to wear an intermediate layer with a summer jacket. The cardigan is therefore excluded. The wool Vitale Barberis is already thin enough: even a merino wool would not necessarily have its place underneath.
The sure value for inserting the pattern is the shirt. And I had in particular considered this shirt “notebook” from Carven, that unfortunately did not have time to shoot.
To give in a more dressed register, I could have worn them with these derbies Good Guys, whose brown echoes the lamb yoke.
Wear the jacket more casually
A jacket covered, it is nevertheless a structure marked, not loose, which makes it immediately a formal piece.
We can nevertheless associate it with a tee-shirt, but it must be a little worked. So we forget a beast tee-shirt white collar V that would denote too much.
It requires a more nuanced texture and colors. It can also play a little original cut (without going to the oversized ). This is found especially on T-shirts Homecore range Aero Snow: a well notched collar and a fabric with slightly worn effect with a classic cut that goes well with a jacket.cc
It can lower associate such a chino Homecore, or an Ottoman pants Melinda Gloss , with a jog cut.
All good compromises have been made on this jacket Cavalier Bleu, so that it remains both accessible in terms of price, but also so that it is structured and airy for the summer. If it is a strong piece and rich in detail, you can adopt two approaches: make it the central garment of your outfit (it’s the easiest) or marry it to other strong pieces that will play on Other details (such as patterns).