Guide to Bike Pedals

Gadgets: Pedals, we rarely care about, except when they don’t work anymore. We give you a few quick, simple advice on buying, using and maintaining the pedals.

Think quality and proper equipment for the task

Most of us don’t need the most expensive and lightest pedals. For example, you need a pair of SPD pedals to your commuter bike, so is it wasting pearls on pigs if you go and buy a pair of lightweight and fine XTR pedals. That will wear and fraying of the living gravel and neglected maintenance.

But if you spend a little bit more than the very cheapest pedal, so upgrade pedal materials from poorer alloys of steel to stainless steel or titanium, which means that the pedal is stronger while weighing less. Plus, the ball bearings are often better sealed which gives them a higher resistance against dirt, water and other things. This means they probably will last longer.

Right-or left-hand thread?

The left pedal is screwed in and tightened counterclockwise, as opposed to the right-hand pedal which tighten clockwise. Not sure which is which? Most often, the pedal axles marked with L or R for left and right/left/right. Otherwise, keep up the pedals in front of you and study how the threads fall. The pedal axle where the threads are leaning to the right, your left pedal. And should be screwed into the crank counterclockwise.

If you happen to be confused the pedals and drag them into the wrong crankarm so, chances are that you will destroy your cranks. Before you install the pedals so grease the threads. Then use a torque wrench and pull the pedals to 34 nm. Or look in the instruction manual for your pedals.

Increase the voltage

If your shoes ever wrung from the pedals with a little notice when you ride, so it is time to increase the spring tension. Conversely, if you have to struggle to wring out it is time to reduce the tension.

On the pedals, there is a small Allen screw. Tighten this clockwise to increase the tension and make it harder to click out of the pedals, or counter-clockwise to make it easier to wring out the shoes.

Another friction bov is dirt and grit on your pedals and spurtklossar. Use water and a brush to scrape clean, and lubricate the part of brick that you insert at the front of the pedal with a drop of chain oil.

Change spurtklossar!

If the force required to turn out or click into the pedals varies widely, this may be a sign that spurtklossarna is worn. Worn out spurtklossar will make inroads and slew from the pedals will be unpredictable. And dangerous.

Check out how worn bricks are at the points where the pedals, or if they have wear indicators, so you get where an indication of the degree of wear and tear. Before replacing the bricks so use a highlighter and mark where your old bricks are sitting before you screw off them.

Use the check mark to screw the new bricks at the same location. Be sure to keep track of all the bolts, washers and shim when mounting remove the old bricks. And use grease on the bultgängorna when you place your new bricks.